Sunday, 30 January 2011

Happy Republic Day – Albeit a Little Belated


I wanted to post this on Republic Day but could not do so due to my BSNL Broadband connectivity issues. Also, I got another feedback from my readers to keep the blog post short which I will try to incorporate right away, easy one.
Today, our Nation celebrates 62nd Republic Day of our beloved Country. The day is significant in that on this day, our Constitution was adopted in/by our Country. This is also the day when in 1920, a pledge was taken by the freedom fighters of our Country in Lahore session of Indian National Congress (not today’s UPA congress) that only “पूर्ण स्वराज्य” and nothing less was acceptable to them. Also, the number 26 is significant in another way as it is the only single number sitting between a perfect square (degree 2) and perfect cube (degree 3). It is very fitting and appropriate that the day was chosen by our freedom fighters to take such a pledge to push our nation up by one degree.
This day also reminds me of my childhood days when all school children used to go to “प्रभात फेरी” in our village chanting slogans like “विजयी विश्व तिरंगा प्यारा, झन्डा ऊंचा रहे हमारा ”, holding Tiranga in our hands upright and subsequently participating in speeches, debates and sports.
Last year, I was in US on Republic Day but this year, I made it a point to find time and sit in front of TV to watch the Delhi Rajpath proceedings of Republic day. What a fantastic and fabulous program it was. The three wings of our Defence Forces, Jal Sena, Thal Sena and Nabh Sena, displayed their Might, with fighter planes and helicopters hovering in the sky singing their own “विजय गान” and with the “भीष्म” tanks making thunderous applause followed by exhibits from various states showcasing the cultural diversity of our great nation.
Might is a beautiful and equally motivating word. Mighty nations are able to put their point across easily and the Language of Mighty nations is easily understood by other nations. Some people may not agree with me when I say that “Pokharan-II” was one of the greatest things that has happened to our Country. While it is OK to disagree and I respect their disagreement, the fact of the matter is India has emerged mightier after Pokharan-II. If US was able to slap sanctions against India, it was due to US’s economic might. But at the same time, if India was able to defy the US sanctions, it was also due to India’s emerging economic might. Also, if India today figures on radar screens of all nations and if heads of States of all developed and industrialized nations are participating in a parade to India, it is due to India’s emerging economic Might.
We as a nation have to set goals for all of us to work in a way that can make our nation Mightier. History is the witness that we have never, and never means never, used our might to hurt anyone. But history is also a witness that only mighty’s survive. I am citing a Sanskrit Shloka which also talks on the same point.
अश्वं नैव गजं नैव व्याघ्रं नैव च नैव च ।
अज पुत्रं बलिं दद्यातः देवोः दुर्वल घातकः ।।
Not a horse, not an elephant, and never a tiger. It is the cub of a goat that is sacrificed. Even God is a betrayer of the weak.
Now it is up to us what we want to become, a kid of a goat or a tiger. Also, if we are strong, many phenomena which otherwise could result into adverse conditions start returning positive yields. The following Sanskrit shloka further solidifies this viewpoint.
वनानि दहतोः वन्हे सखा भवतु मारुतः ।
सः एव दीप नशाय क्रशे कस्यास्ति सौह्रदम् ।।
When it catches fire in forests, the wind is there as a friend to assist. But the same wind destroys a small lamp. Applying the true meaning of this in our national context, one will support us only if we are strong otherwise the same will turn out to be un-favorable for us.
People often compare the economic progress of China and our country India. While it is true that China has made significant progress over last 20+ and appear to be much ahead of us, we have one thing that China does not have and does not plan to have and can not have in foreseeable future. I’d use a Deewar film like dialogue “मेरे पास लोकतन्त्र है” to describe and I am allowed to think freely.
I’d like to cite another small story from Mahabharata to further support my point. It was the final and decisive battle between Arjuna and Karna. Both were Maharathis, equally brave and powerful. Lord Krishna who also happened to be the Saarathi of Arjuna was witnessing the un-paralleled fight between two great warriers. When arrows fired by Arjuna using his bow Gandiv were hitting Karna’s chariot, the chariot was going back by 20 feet. But, when the arrows fired by Karna using his bow Vijay were hitting Arjuna’s chariot, it was going back by 2 inches only. But, Lord Krishna was constantly clapping and saying “उत्तम अति उत्तम” on the performance of Karna as against Arjuna. For once Arjuna did not pay attention and let it go. But when Krishna continued, Arjuna could not stop himself and asked Krishna. “O Madhav, you are my Lord, Sakha and Saarathi, and as you can see, I am able to push my opponent’s chariot back many times more than what my opponent can push my chariot. Then, why are you clapping on his performance and not on my performance”. Krishna first smiled and then replied. Your chariot has me in it, who has to carry the burden of the entire world. So if Karna is still able to push your chariot back by 2 inches, even with my presence on it, he deserves appreciation and my clap. The same applies to the story of our country and our northern neighbor China. We have all sorts of problems, challenges and issues while China ruled by communist regime is run thru decrees. While we have a plethora of burden, China has very few compared to ours. So our progress whatever little it is in comparison to China has greater significance and needs accolades from all our countrymen.
There is a saying in Hindi that “अकेला चना भाड़ नहीं फोड़ सकता”. While it seems true on its face value, it also has a great degree of inbuilt myth in it. We can open the history books and see, not one or two but hundreds of examples where significant differences have been made by individuals single handedly. Take examples, Swami Vivekananda, Sage Aurvindo, Chanakya and even Gandhi. These individuals picked supporters as they moved along their path but they were all alone when they commenced their jouney.
So today on 62nd Republic Day of our great nation, I pray to Almighty to bless People so as to set for ourselves stretch goals and work in our own individual capacities to take our nation to the pinnacle of glory, the glory which once we had, the glory which rightfully belongs to us and the glory which is achievable. I am citing a few lines from the great poem ‘Geetanjali’ of Tagore.
Where the mind is without fear and the head is held high;
Where knowledge is free;
…
….
…
Where the mind is led forward by Thee to ever-widening thought and action -
Into that heaven of freedom, my father, let my country awake.

Saturday, 8 January 2011

2010 - My take on it

Bangalore
January 8th, 2011

The year 2011 was born just a few days back and has started to enter into its childhood from infancy stage. Looking back into the past year or so, our great country has continued the consolidation of its emerging prominence on the World Stage. There is growing realization among countries of all continents and their Global Corporations that their plans need to have key ingredient, “India”, for their plans to be effective, practical, sustainable and successful. It should fill all countrymen’s heart with great pride on such elevation of our motherland at the World Stage. At the same time our country is carrying a plethora of drags, which if not unloaded in timely manner, will create a slew of adverse situations for us and will nullify all the global advantage we have gotten so far.
Here are some positives that we need to build on.
Chalo bhai chalo Dilli (Delhi) chalo: The past year has witnessed heads of all major developed countries visiting India starting from Cameron from Britain to Obama from US to Sarkozy from France to Medvedev from Russia and Wen from China. Gone are the days when major discussions with India used to be centered on general aid to India. Now, all the major world countries see India as a vehicle to carry their own country out of the economic doldrums. It made me feel immensely proud and my eyes became moist when Head of US, Barrack Obama, during his visit to India said that agreements with India would create approximately 54,000 jobs in USA. Wow, what a big change and role reversal. Recently, Som Mittal, NASSCOM chief said that India in now net job creator in US. In earlier times, it used to be other way that so and so amount of US aid would help in implementing so and so projects in India and that in turn would create jobs for so many people in India. Now, the time has become good. But, we should be able to consolidate on this opportunity presented to us by the favorable conditions. Similar to the US slogan that says “Business of America is Business”, we should have a slogan that “Business of India is Business too”. Our political/corporate leadership needs to be conscious while making agreements with foreign state/corporation heads and should consider, both short term and long term economic benefit to our country, while keeping emotions and sentiments out of it.
Other positive is that all the heads of states of five permanent members of UNSC have recognized India as a Nuclear State. Also, all permanent UNSC countries except China have advocated for inclusion of India as a permanent member of the Security Council. With China it is/was expected and our country has to be extra careful in all dealings. China is doing our “gherabandi” in a very systematic manner and we should be extremely serious in recognizing this grave problem in order to be able to address it appropriately.  With all other countries we should have policy of “Trust but then test” but with China, we should have policy of “Trust only after the test, but then test again after we trust”. The reason is that our historical experience which China has been subpar and the societies, who do not learn from history become history. With China, while we should continue to reciprocate on business collaboration. At the same time, it would also be good idea to take some tough postures. If China does not stop giving stapled Visa to people from J&K, citing reasons that J&K is disputed land, we should also start giving stapled Visa to people from Aksai Chin citing the reason that Aksai Chin is part of India per Government approved Indian map and that the land was gifted to China by Pakistan in 1947 which we do not recognize.
Brand India: The Brand India has finally come in big way and is becoming well known around the globe. People see India as a peace loving nation, and Indians in general, people with good values, systems and traditions. Our country has finally adopted a symbol for her currency “Rupee”. Over last few years the word Indo-Pak are dehyphenated. Foreign heads do not weigh India and Pakistan using same scale and do not use the Indo and Pak words together. On other hand, the new word Af-Pak is being coined by many western countries to which I have no comments to offer.
Rise in Sports Arena: The past year witnessed leap and bound rise for India as a sports country. Certainly we are number one in cricket in both formats, Test and ODI, and that is something for which each countryman should be proud of. But, we should be equally proud of our sports people’s performance in both CWG-10 in New Delhi and Asiad-10 in China. The CWG as organized was overall a blot on our nation but strictly from sportspeople’s point of view, the performance of our athletes and other sportspersons was like a Shining Gem.  The breadth of sports will also help the sports to reach out to grass root level creating scores of opportunities and will ultimately translate into thousands of jobs at all levels all across country.
ISRO/DRDO’s Exemplary work: Inspite of ISRO and DRDO not having remarkable success records, their achievements whatever they are with the limited resources that they are made available with are exemplary.  The Chandrayaan mission of ISRO has made every single countrymen and people of Indian origin proud all around the globe. Their launch vehicles ASLV and PSLV are great spaceships and the GSLV, in spite of recent failure, is getting ready for the big day. Similarly, the indigenous missile programs of DRDO (Prithvi, Agni, Nag, Dhanush and Akash, Brahmos) are all remarkable. The scientists at these organizations need our appreciation and pat on their back to continue their work so that they come out with flying colors. Space and missile technology is complex and requires numerous tests to reach to the state of perfection.
The PSUs and the Private Sector:  Some of the public sector units of India including many public sectors banks are truly world class organizations; ONGC, IOC , BHEL, SBI etc.  are to name a few. In spite of so many inherent inefficiencies in these PSUs, all things considered, their corporate governance is not bad, infact better than many US Wall Street firms who are/were supposed to be on top of corporate governance. I was reading some time back in a news paper that, today the net valuation of SBI is many many many times more than Citibank.  No one could have and would have imagined this just a few years back but today, that is a fact. These PSUs continue to add value for the nation as well for their investors.
Similarly, many private companies have become household names across the globe. Infosys, Tata group etc. are to name a few.
Stock markets: Our Bourses continue to show signs of independence from rest of the world. No longer have our markets caught cold when it has snowed on New York Wall Street.  Our stock valuations are becoming more based on fundaments of the companies rather than speculation and external influence. After 2008 meltdown, our Sensex has not only re-climbed to the same peak but has surpassed by significant margin, whereas the Dow still fluctuates between 7K and 11K for last nine years. The foreign institutions are findings our markets more profitable than their local markets. Our currency has remained steady against US dollar and other major currencies of industrialized nations. Slowly but steadily, our markets are entering the realm of efficient stock markets.
Then, there are more worrying factors than what we can cheer for.
Inflation: Inflation is the one of the biggest enemies of our country. It is impacting most citizens of India, more so to the people living in Bharat than people living in India.  I’m sure the government of India has some standard measurement criteria to come up with inflation and growth numbers, month after month, quarter after quarter and year after year. But, at least I have difficulty digesting these numbers. Overtime, we all are losing our purchasing power. So, the inflation adjusted growth rate numbers, as provided by Government are questionable.
Also, there is no reprieve from some or other kind of crisis in critical food item all through the year. Sometimes, it is sugar, other times, it is onion or garlic. The Government is in despondent state and does not have clue as how to deal with inflation. Whatever little it is trying to do is knee jerk reaction and is like “Digging the well when thirsty”. Our country does not have a coherent and holistic agriculture policy which can take macro view of food requirement and production potential in the country and come up with the plan for crop cultivation and export. There is no point in exporting anything when same thing requires importing at much higher cost.
I don’t what others feel but, I felt embarrassed when we had to import onion from our immediate west where we used to export in large quantities. Then felt embarrassed again when they imposed onion export ban for India.
Dwindling male/female ratio: The steep fall in male/female ratio should be big concern to all of us. A male’s need for a female companion and a female’s need for a male companion is not just a biological need but also an emotional need. When we say someone is settled in life, it also implies that the person has got a job and a suitable life partner. This falling male/female ratio will create such a big social problem that it would result into large-scale crimes of all categories. Already it is late but it’s never too late. We should do all that is possible in our power/reach to prevent female feticide. I happen to go to my village in UP last year and I could see many gangs of boys, all in their late twenties, not getting an opportunity to wed because there are no females available.  In entire country side of north India, the problem is wide spread.  Among many causes, the dowry system is one of the key causes. The dowry system needs to be eradicated.
Loss of capital: We are not going to be a developed nation in ten, fifty or even hundred years if we continue to allow loss of capital at the current rate. We build roads which should last for 5 years at least but they do not last even for 6 months and then again we have to redo the same road. The same is true with all the civic infrastructure work such as sidewalks, road medians, bridges, railings etc etc etc . The final nail in the coffin is put by the rampant corruption across all levels.
In 1996, I was on a Tata Unisys project assignment in Austin, Texas, USA and my apartment complex Savannah Ridge was right off a major road, Fast West Blvd. On a couple of intersections, the sidewalk showed commissioning date of 1980. So even after 16 years, the sidewalk was in great condition. That is one good example which shows how capital can be preserved. Our nation needs to set high benchmark for infra work for preservation of capital.
Corruption and scams: The corruption has taken such deep roots in the institutions of our country that only a miracle can take it out of the system. Even the offices of Indian Armed Forces have not been able to stay away from it. The current UPA government probably will overshoot the corruption barometer if there exists one for measuring corruption. There have been so many instances of scams under the watch of this UPA government that one cannot even recall all of them. The silence of our Prime Minister, who otherwise is known as a person of integrity, has tarnished the “Institution of Prime Minister” for very long time to come. If he does not want to take accountability without authority, and we all know very well where the authority lies, then he should quit the high offices of Prime Minister rather than tarnishing its image along with his own clean image and character. Many from his council of ministers and chief ministers have looted the country by Crores and Crores of rupees. We will need to find a way to shore up public support and channel opinion to confront these offenders of public offices as it happens.
Copied Consumerism: As we are developing (if that’s what we call development), we are massacring the natural resources and environment. The way we are depleting the resources starting from land to water to minerals is alarming. The world is not going to end with us. We have to leave enough resources for our children and their children and their children. As Gandhi said “The world has sufficient for everyone’s need but not to everyone’s greed”. On one hand, we have shortage of water all over the places then on other hand, we have water being wasted at disproportional levels every there. We will need to be creative to achieve the desired level of hygiene using much less quantity of water. Other thing that is worrisome is indiscriminate plotting of fertile land all over the nation. If one travels by train from Kanpur to Delhi, a distance of about 450 kilometers, one cannot find a single stretch of 1km without some building, finished or unfinished on highly fertile land. This indiscriminate plotting is taking a bigger toll, making less arable land available for growing food grains and vegetables. And then we complain for food inflation. Hn..
Every year, our country witnesses flood in part of country and droughts in other parts of the country. It would be very logical for someone to ask a question why can’t we divert the water from the flood hit areas to the drought it areas.  There was a plan to implement a project of interconnecting major rivers. But that seems to be catching dust like many other plans.
Demon on the road: Not sure what is the root cause of people’s demonic behavior on the road. There is no sense of traffic discipline by many Indian drivers. If we are not going to discipline our driving, no matter how many flyovers, magic boxes, underpasses and overpasses we make, we will not be able to fix traffic woos.  If we all drive in a disciplined manner, the road utilization will be much higher and will enable more traffic movement in same amount of time. Bangalore e.g. is the only city in whole world where many traffic lights are green or red for one hundred eighty seconds in one stretch. This is a catch twenty two situation. Probably, the traffic controllers have set this to such a high number because they know for sure that first sixty seconds will be spent in just fixing the mess of a few frontal vehicles and then lots of time will be wasted as there will be a BMTC bus stop right after the traffic right. But, due to this high number, drivers tend to rush so as not to getting caught by the one hundred eighty second red traffic light. First we have to show signs of our disciplined driving and then give traffic regulators a chance to reduce the duration from one hundred eighty seconds to forty five seconds or so.
Most of the motor bike riders take the whole road to ransom. They just drive anywhere in any direction at very fast speed.
Dying civic sense: If we can treat our public places similar to what we treat our houses, our surroundings will be in a much better shape and condition then what they are currently in. If one goes to government offices, one can see “red colored paan spit” on every wall and stair. Why is that? What can we do about it? One can see people relieving on road side without slightest thought that the behavior is against the norms of a civic society.  During this New Year eve celebration in MG road area, people dumped twenty tons of trash in small area. What kind of celebration is that? How would one feel if someone visiting his/her home creates mess of the house by littering all kinds of things? During Christmas vacation, I happened to visit some pristine nature places but there too I could see dumps of plastic bottles, cups, plates etc. We got to learn to respect our nature, environment and surroundings. We got to understand that “my right ends where someone else’s right begins”, and that someone includes trees, rivers, mountains, water bodies etc.
Pseudo Secularism: There is no denying with the fact that India as of today is a secular country. But the big question is how you define secularism. My practical definition of secularism is that people following different religions and sects can co-exist in peaceful manner while following their respective beliefs and paths. To me, secularism also means, apart from loving people of the country, also loving mountains of our country - Himalayas, Vindhya, Satpura, Aravalli, Naga, Khasi, Jaintia, Sahyadri, Nilgiris and Pir Panjal etc, also loving rivers of the country - Ganga, Yamuna, Narmada, Krishna, Kaveri, Godavari, Gomti, Ghaghra, Satluj, Ravi, Brahmputa etc, also loving deserts of the country - Thar , Leh etc, also loving lakes of the country - Dal, Ashtmudi, Chilka, Naini, Narayan Sarovar, Krishna Kund, Radha Kund etc, also loving monuments of the country - India gate, Gateway of India, Taj Mahal, Ajanta/ Ellora, Sanchi Stupa etc, also loving our epics - Veda, Puranas, Upnishads etc and finally, also loving country’s flora&fauna, infrastructure, trains, buses, planes, ships, bridges, roads and everything else in the country.
To me, secularism also means pledging allegiance to the National Flag “Tiranga”, National Song “Vande Mataram”, sovereignty and constitution of India. It also means feeling happy for happy moments of nation and feeling grieved for sad moments of nation. Secularism also means helping in keeping the enemies of our motherland at bay.
But, these days, it has become fashion to castigate Hindus and Hinduism in the name of secularism to appear intelligent and smart. Rahul Gandhi, who is aspiring to one day lead this country, makes statements which are detrimental to the feeling of majority of the population even though he knows very well as to what the facts are. It is well established fact that the terrorism flows from our western neighbor and we also know that there is no such word/phrase as Hindu Terrorism.  History is the witness that Hindus have tolerated even the invaders/looters like Balbans, Razias, Khilzis, Temurs, Tuglaqs, Babers, Nadirshahs and even Abdali’s. Hindus have also given asylum to the people who could not find refuge elsewhere like Jews, Persians etc. Rahul should know as to what is the difference between organizations whose volunteers and members help in construction in a true selfless manner, even when everything is destroyed by natural calamities and the organizations who believe only in destructions. Rahul should be able to distinguish between organizations who believe in “Peace” and organizations who believe in “Piece”. The same is the case with many other political leaders, news anchors and columnists. We have to develop a way to confront these people as and when they misrepresent facts. We should remember that we have the biggest weapon “Ballot” and “Pen” with us and be willing to exercise vehemently when needed.
Terrorism: This is one problem that successive governments of our country have been unable to handle effectively. The smaller lull period should not be mistaken that the terrorism has been tackled. We should recognize that where the origin of terrorism lies, our immediate west. We have to fix this mess ourselves. After major incidents, our political leadership takes this up with foreign heads of governments and asks them to pressurize the terrorism sponsoring country to stop terrorism. In Hindi there is a saying “Laaton ke bhoot Baaton se nahi maante”.  . There is fire under our butts and we have to fabricate a giant extinguisher with a big barrel ourselves. The other countries and their heads have their own set of problems to address/fix. We ask other governments to ban terrorist organizations. Why can’t our government first ban those in our own country? Our courts should also recognize that they are not helping the country by their snail like speed.
Separatism: As it is there are more things in our country that divide us than the things that unite us – language, dialect, region, religion, sect, colour, caste, class etc. The threat of separatist is looming large all over the country and is just not confined to J&K. In North East, the unrest prevails in almost every state. Then we have Maoist problems in eastern states. Andhra has its own problems. Then the recent Gurjar agitation is taking ugly turn and is becoming yearly phenomenon resulting into public inconvenience and loss of revenue due to its impact on movement and tourism. In Maharashtra, the MNS sings its own separatism song. The current caste based reservation system is not working. The reservation system which is as old as independent India needs to revisited, if not abolished.
The Government of India also needs to make sure that every area in the country is provided connectivity and basic amenities. Take example, the Jawaharlal tunnel commissioned by Britishers are the only way to connect Kashmir with rest of India. And, whenever there is heavy snowfall, the new anchors, on behalf of government, shamelessly announce on TV that Kashmir is cut off from rest of the country. Why have we not developed another or probably two more alternate roads to address the Kashmir connectivity issue? The same is the case with Northeastern states. Whenever there is flooding in Brahmaputra river , the entire north east is cut off from rest of India. Our political leadership needs to find creative ways of connecting north east with rest of India. May be, there is need to strike some alliances and agreements to make roads thru Bangladesh.
I have tried to cover many topics in this blog and will revisit some of these topics in details in later blogs. Many folks may not agree with my point of views but that’s OK. That’s what blogging is all about (“Swachhand Vichaar” (Unrestrained thoughts)  and whatever I have written is based on my beliefs and convictions.
-         Iti  Subham

Thursday, 30 December 2010

Trip to Kukke Subramania/Dharmasthala/Udipi/Sringeri/Horanadu

As an English calendar year begins its descent around Christmas time, it creates an atmosphere of slowness all around and makes/tells people to take it easy. This is also a time when I take a weeklong vacation to go out of town with my family to unwind, reboot, relax and contemplate.  But this year’s weeklong vacation plan had been sabotaged by my wife’s school. During the Christmas vacation break when every single school is closed, her school asked its teachers to come to school in a very circumspect manner. So on Friday, 24th Dec, when she came back from school and told me that she would have 4 days off and has to report to school only on Dec 29th, I quickly decided to go somewhere out of town. A weeklong vacation is great, but 4 days is not bad either.
I called some taxi operators but the rates they quoted were very high- Rs 10/KM- so I said to myself, “What the heck, I’ll drive myself”. I contacted a couple of my friends to discuss some options on locations and routes. One suggestion to me was to not take the Honda City due to is low clearance, and instead take the I10, even at the cost of slight discomfort and coziness. Finally, I decided to convert this trip as a pilgrimage to Kukke Subramania, Dharamsthala, Udupi, Sringeri and Horanadu.  The packing began on Friday, 24th Dec, evening. I had set the alarm to get up at 4:00AM the next day in order to start early, to enable us to beat the traffic.
25th Dec 2010 (Saturday)
Although, the alarm was set for 4:00AM, I got up at 3:50AM on my own. It happens to me all the time whenever I have to start early; I end up waking up well before the alarm goes off. I’m sure that is the case with everyone. The subconscious mind does not sleep and keeps processing even when we are asleep. After finishing morning chores, we started from home around 5:40AM, not bad. As we came out of the house, I noticed heavy fog and I said to myself “O my god, this will slow us down”. Anyway, I started driving and very quickly, I was on old Madras Road (NH4) towards KR Puram.  Although the traffic was slight, I was not able to get speed beyond 50 KMPH due to fog, and I being a safe driver (at least that’s what I think) was not willing to take any risk whatsoever. What is the point in hurrying? The journey is equally important as the destination.  
After crossing KR Puram bridge, the fog situation became slightly better but not good enough. I passed Manyata Tech Park, my work location on right, passed under the Hebbal flyover and soon I was at the Tumkur road. I had read from the news papers about the completion of the long flyover on Tumkur road and this was my opportunity to witness it firsthand. Within no time, I was on the flyover. The next  17-18 KM till Nelmangala drive was a breeze. The folks have done a remarkable job in the flyover and highway work. I can say, it is truly international standard. It looked as if I was driving on a highway of a developed country. What that shows is that we have the ability to make truly international standard roads. Then, why can’t we implement the same model for all the roads and highways? Ever since my childhood, to whatever back in time I can recall, our country has always been a developing country. The wait has been too long and still not over. I think if we can put our act together, it won’t be long before the tag of “Developing” country can be converted to “Developed” county. Anyway, sorry for the segway, me being me, can’t avoid.
From Nelmangala, I took the Mangalore road (NH48). The road is being widened but seems like the progress is very slow, like everywhere else. Overall, the road was about 90% good and I was able to get good speed. I also noticed that there were way too many LPG bullet tankers on the road. One thing I would say about the drivers of the bullet tankers is that they are all very good drivers and give more than right of the way and help faster vehicles in safe overtaking. Very soon we were in Kunigal. The stomach had started churning and was badly demanding breakfast.  We were told that there is a Kamath restaurant after Kunigal but we did not see any, even though we were looking very carefully on both sides.
We continued and were passing though C R Patanam, still without any signs of Kamath. Finally we saw a signboard for Kamath and were thrilled with the expectation of food. The stomach churning cooled down as it started to see the light at the end of tunnel. Upon reaching Kamath, we had heavy breakfast and coffee. The food quality was not great, just ok but the service was absolutely chaotic. On comparison, the food quality of Kamath on Mysore road is much better. By the way, there are a couple of more restaurants after Kamath on the same side as Kamath (Ganesh and one more). From outside, they looked very appealing. Next time, we’ll probably try a different restaurant.
After breakfast, we continued towards Hassan. The road was good and I was able to cruise up to 80KMPH, not bad for an I10 automatic. The Hassan city traffic slowed us down but the road and traffic became much better after the Hassan city. The Hassan city also reminded me of ISRO’s MCF (Master Control Facility) due to impending GSAT launch. Later on, the GSAT launch did not succeed due to some technical goof up. I wish ISRO best of luck for next time. ISRO is one of the few organizations of India which is truly international standard and has made country and countrymen proud on many occasions. As we were driving towards Sakleshpur from Hassan, the landscape on both sides of the road was giving clear signal that we were about to enter the ghat area.
The ghat road after the Sakleshpur is extremely bad. I am running out of adjectives to describe it. By any standards it cannot be called a road. The road is only 5% good, maybe less. One is lucky to get speed beyond 10KMPH. And if one drives more than 10KMPH, the damage to the car tires and suspension could be severe and can make one stranded on the highway. We saw a couple of cars overturned. An overturned giant truck has blocked more than half of the road and it took considerable amount of time to pass that area. Finally we were looking for the signs of Kukke Subramania left turn. We followed the policy of asking at two places and then take action. Like in Bangalore, we were getting the answers, “Straight Madi”, “Mundhe”. Then we saw a left cut to the Kukke Subramania temple. It is about 25KM from the Mangalore road and the road is extremely good. As we reached the temple, the trip odometer was showing 298KM and clock was showing 12:50PM. Nearly 7 hours and 300KM, not bad considering that terrible ghat road after Sakleshpur and the time we spent for the breakfast.
The temple has plenty of parking in nearby area. After parking the car, we hurried towards temple as the mid day closure time is 1:30PM. We had good Darshan in Kukke Subramania Temple in spite of heavy rush. This temple is also known as “Nag” temple. After Darshan (Subramania, Vasuki and Sesha), we had Maha Prasad in the temple’s dining hall. The food was simple but extremely delicious.  It is always the case that when the name Prasad is given to a food item, the taste is multiplied manifold. The God takes care of the taste.  In Kukke temple, we also met the mutt chief for a few minutes. Pujayaneeya Swamiji was very kind in spending time with us and interacting with me and my family.
From Kukke we started our journey towards Dharmashala. The feeling of having to drive on Mangalore ghat road was once again a little depressing but at the same time, excitement of visiting Dharmasthala was overwhelming. Again, we were back on the same torturous road after taking the left turn. The road condition improved after 10KM and after another 10 KM, we took the right turn towards Dharmasthala. The road was not great but not bad. It was possible to cruise up to 60KMPH.  We were looking for signs of Southadaka, an open air Ganesh Temple which we saw after 20KM or so. The Southadka temple is about 2KM from the main road but half of the road is extremely bad and is full of big stones. So, I drove very slow and reached the Soudhadaka temple. This temple has its unique style. It is in open air and is considered one of the “Active” Ganesh temple. We had good Ganesh Darshan and once again, started our journey towards Dharmasthala.
We reached Dharmasthala around 5PM. The parking space there is plenty. We checked in our luggage in Netrawati Guest House. The room was extremely good with a restaurant across the street.  We proceeded for Dharmasthala temple Darshan (Lord Manju Nath) around 7PM and had very good Darshan of Lord Manjunath and other deities.  We had Mahaprasad in the temple dining hall. The food was simple but delicious.  Later on, we saw Dr Veerendra Heggade, the 21st Dharmadhikari of the Dharmasthala trust, distributing Prasad to the devotees. With the help of Temple officials, we met Dr Heggade and his wife Mrs Hemavati.  Dr Heggade was kind enough to spend some time interacting with us. He asked us to visit his car museum as well which we could not, due to shortage of time.
At this point, I would like to sincerely appreciate and express my gratitude towards Arun ji from Sangh Parivar in arranging us very pertinent and timely help in Kukke Subramania and Dharmasthala.
Dec 26th,2010 (Sunday)
As we were badly tired the previous day, got up little late, around 6:30AM, in the morning. After the morning chores, we visited Bahubali Vihar, a nearby place where a tall statue of Lord Bahubali is installed.  It is at the top of the hill and one has to climb nearly 275 steps to reach there.  From the top, the view all around is marvelous.
We had breakfast in a nearby restaurant, Arpana. The food quality was good but the service was extremely chaotic. People were literally pushing each other to get food and find a table to sit. But what can be said of people’s behavior at religious places when we can notice the same behavior in IT capital of India as well.
After breakfast I started driving towards Udipi. The road condition is 50% good. There are some very poor road patches which can take the gut out of the tires. The road signs were not very clear so we had to ask for directions at key intersections.  Again, we followed the policy of asking two people, “believe and verify”. When we were just 20 KM away from Udipi  around Karkala,  I made a mistake and took the wrong road and that road put me at Podubidari on SH17, the coastal highway, 15 KM south of Udipi. Bad but not too bad. The coastal highway was good but extremely crowded. Did not get speed beyond 30-40KMPH. Finally we took right turn for Krishna Temple. The signs for the temple were very clear and we could reach the temple around 1PM. We had good Darshan of Lord Krishna. The deity is in the form of “Bal Krishna”. Before Darshan of main deity, we also did Darshan through Kanakadas window on the back side of the main temple. It is believed that Lord Krishna turned his face backwards and gave Darshan to Kanakadas who was not allowed to enter the temple due to his lower caste. The caste problem has its root from far back in time and needs to be eradicated. It is a drag on our society. We had Mahaprasad in the temple dining hall. The food was simple but delicious. The temple is very old and requires little better upkeep then what is present right now.
After Darshan, we were looking for a hotel to stay overnight. Someone told us to try in Manipal, a town only a few KM away from temple and famous for educational institutions.  In Manipal, we looked at 2-3 hotels and finally decided to stay in Hotel Ashlesha. The AC room was reasonable and clean. After checking into the hotel, we relaxed a bit and then proceeded to Malpe beach of Udipi.  The beach was extremely crowded but we did not have any plans to go in the water anyway so it did not matter much to us. One thing I would suggest to some of our countrymen is to show some sensibility and decency in public places. For example, going in water in public places should be done in swimming trunk and/or other appropriate clothing. Going in water in just chaddi shows only lack of decency. Anyway, it is what it is. In India, that’s how people live and behave. It will probably take generations to overcome this. We took a walk on the beach and then took a motorized boat to nearby St Mary Island, about 5 Km into the ocean. This is the same island where explorer Vasco DeGamma first anchored his ship before proceeding to southern city of Kozhikode. The St Mary Island has pristine water and rocks. One thing which is highly deplorable is that plastic bottles, plates and polythene bags were scattered everywhere, although there are NO Plastic signs all over the places. Almost everywhere in the country, most of the people seem oblivious to the instructions.
We were having desire to have a nice vegetarian food so we asked our hotel reception for the recommendations. The receptionist  recommended very highly for Kediyoor for vegi food. The restaurant was nearby and we did not have much difficulty in finding it. But, we went to restaurant with very high expectations. The food quality was above average but because our bar was very high, we were not very satisfied. However, it is good value for the money. I guess the words poor, average, great and outstanding do not have any absolute values but are all pointers on a relative scale. Based on where the bar is set, the same thing can be interpreted one-way or the other.
Dec 27th 2010 ( Monday)
We got up little early this day, around 6AM to make an early start for Sringeri. Before proceeding to Sringeri, we had breakfast in Pangaala restaurant in Manipal. We had inquired about the Sringeri route and I was warned that the shorter route is through Agumbe Ghat which has tens of hairpin bends and the climb is very steep and car requires lots of power. With about 70 horses pulling I10, I realized power should not be any problem. Also, by this time, I had developed solid handling of ghat roads.  So, I decided to proceed towards Sringeri via Hebri, Agumbe. The road is only about 50-60% good. As I saw the Agumbe hills and cars on the hills, it caused goose bumps to me. Then the climb to Agumbe began. Remember the rail engine song “I think I can I think I can”. Initially there were marking for hairpin bends (HP1, HP2 etc ) but then there were no markings. Nevertheless, I continued the climb ( tapa tap tapa tap….). We stopped at a few photo spots and took some pictures. After Agumbe, the drive to Sringeri was not that bad.
We reached Sringeri around 10:30AM and straightaway proceeded for the Sharda Maa Darshan. Again, here also we had very good Darshan. Post Darshan, we went to neaby river and fed popcorn to the fishes. There were so many fishes and so many people were feeding them. It was  an amazing scene. The water was very clear and cold. We relaxed there for a while and then proceeded to dining hall for the Maha Prasad. Again, the food was simple but delicious.
After Sringeri, we proceeded towards Kalasa via Kudremukh ( NH13/SH66). For half of the distance, the road was pretty bad and isolated. There were stretches of 10-15 minutes when we did not see any vehicles either overtaking me (I am a fast driver so I was not surprised by this) or from the opposite side. That gave us little scary thoughts at times. Nevertheless, the nature was pristine; especially in Kudremukh National Park area is awesome. We could see signs all over the places “Snakes Zone” so I was little careful in the driving. I did not want to hurt a snake and that too after doing Darshan in “Nag” temple in Kukke Subramania. As we were approaching Kudremukh, I saw a big viper on the road, about 6-7 feet long slowly crossing the road. My speed must have been around 50KMPH so I had to slam the breaks to avoid reaching near the snake. As my car windows were open, I could smell the rubber due to the tires rubbing hard on the road due to break slamming. We were extremely happy to see the snake in the wild, especially after Nag Darshan in Kukke Subramania. On our way to Kudremukh, we also stopped by at Soothanabbi Fall. The scenery was amazing. We had to go down close to 480 stairs which was not that big a problem but, coming up required us to sweat out. We considered that as precursor to having a good dinner.
In Kalasa we stayed in Thotedar Yatri Nivas. The hotel was reasonable and the AC room was clean and we had no issues at all. The place also had a vegi restaurant downstairs which serves simple food. In Kalasa we visited Rudra Tirtha, a scenic spot on the river side. We relaxed on the rocks quite a bit; meanwhile kids collected some rounded stones. The rounded stone are very symbolic in nature. They represent rounded personality of individuals whose sharp edges have been smoothened overtime through life’s challenges.  The water in the river was very clean and flow was decent.  I wish North Indian River Yamuna in UP  becomes as clean. We also visited a peak called Dabbapanna Katte, a famous point for watching sunset. The climb to the hill was about 1 km and was not very steep.  We were all ready to witness the breathtaking sunset but suddenly a big patch of cloud came from nowhere, moving at a low speed. By the time, the cloud passed, the Sun was set. Slightly disappointing but we enjoyed the bird’s eye view of Kalasa town. In the evening, we went to Horanadu, a place about 8KM from Kalasa for Darshan of Maa Annapurneshwari. Once again, we had a very good Darshan of Mata. The drive to Horanadu was the only stretch when I drove with car lights in ghat area. During this 8KM drive, there were quite a few hairpin bends and sharp curves. It was a very good experience. The Kalasa Horanadu road quality in general was very poor.

Dec 28th, 2010 (Tuesday)
We were really excited to head home after 3 days of visits to mostly religious places but some nature places as well. The first stretch I picked was from Kalasa to Kottigeher, a distance of about 35 KM and the second stretch from Kottigeher to Mudigere, about 20 KM distance. The road in the first stretch was 50% good but the second stretch was very nice. I could cruise up to 80KMPH in the second stretch. We also had nice breakfast in a small restaurant in a Tea Estate. From Mudigere, I drove to Belur, about 45KM away. The road condition was pretty pathetic for most part. There were potholes all over the road. From Belur, I drove to Hassan. This stretch (SH57) was extremely good and brand new. I could cruise up to 90-100KMPH. After Hassan city traffic, we were on Mangalore-Bangalore road (NH48). The road condition in general was very good and I could cruise up to 90KMPH easily. Within a few hours, we were in Nelmangala and then once again I got opportunity to drive on international quality 18-19km on Tumkur road.
Although we are vegetarians, we have no problem eating veg food in restaurants which also serve non-veg food. But during this trip, because of lots of religious places, we wanted to eat only in pure veg restaurants. So, upon entering Bangalore, we were contemplating as to where to have lunch. As we were passing thru new BEL road circle on outer ring road, it stuck to us that there is Mast Kalandar nearby so we had Mast Kalandar. From there we headed home and then finally reached home sweet home.
Our return journey from Kalasa to our residence in Whitefield was 335KM and it took end to end time of 8 hrs and 30 minutes which includes two breaks, 30 minutes for breakfast and 1 hour for lunch. So 335KM in 7 hours is not bad.
The odometer for the overall journey clocked 1040KM. This was truly a very satisfying and purposeful trip. The trip has given me lots of confidence of venturing out in interior parts. I want to make a similar trip to Tamilnadu/Pondy sometime next year.
A few key points.
·         Never hesitate in asking directions. People in general are willing to help. However, it is good idea to reconfirm. It’s OK to use policy of ‘believe but verify”. Also, while receiving directions, keep an eye on their hand/finger movement. Sometimes, they will say “Go straight” but hand will point left. In this case it is better to reconfirm if they meant a left turn.
·         Do not have high expectations with restaurants in interior Karnataka. Go with low bar to enjoy food and for satisfaction. Also, stick to south Indian food only.
·         Be ready for sudden potholes on any roads including State and National highways
·         Speed up only when absolutely safe. There is no point in taking any un-necessary risk.
·         Enjoy the journey as much as destination.
·         Do not let the person in the front passenger seat sleep when vehicle is being driven.
·         Chewing gum keeps one sharp. Keep some gum in the car.
·         Having a collection of MP3 CDs to play while driving is helpful. The FM does not work in Interior Karnataka.
·         Keep extra bottles of water , juice/snacks within the car
·         Do not wait to refill petrol till light indicator is on. Many times, there are no petrol pumps for 50-60 KM. It can create panicky situation if the tank is nearly empty. I have witnessed this during this trip.